Using the A-Line Skirt Tool to Draft a Skirt with Additional Fullness

The MiSlope A-line Skirt Tool generates a made-to-measure skirt using your waist, hip, and skirt length measurements, with precise control over flare, seam lengths, and finishing details.

Why Use This Method?

Sometimes you want more drama at the hem than a standard A-line provides, without changing the fit through the waist or the way the skirt hangs through the body. This method lets you do exactly that.

In the A-line system, flare adds volume by increasing the hem width. Normally, your hip measurement is used to define the hemline when flare is set to 0. But when you want a fuller skirt, you can treat the “hip input” as a design control instead of a body measurement. In other words, you are entering the exact hem circumference you want.

The result: you are adjusting the length of the hemline to add volume, while keeping skirt length controlled separately through seam lengths.

How the Base Shape Works

  • Waist measurement includes negative ease for a secure, snug fit.
  • Hip measurement defines the hemline when flare is set to 0.
  • Skirt length is controlled independently through seam lengths.

With flare set to 0, the hem width equals the hip measurement, creating a clean A-line silhouette. The skirt remains fitted through the body while maintaining movement at the hem.

Skirt Flare

Flare controls the amount of volume added to the hem by increasing the hip measurement used in the pattern. Negative ease is never applied to the hip measurement, it is applied only to the waist. Increasing flare increases hem width and volume without affecting skirt length.

  • 0% flare: Hem width equals the hip measurement
  • 50% flare: Hem width equals hip + 50%
  • 100% flare: Hem width equals hip + 100%

Seam Length Customization

Right Side Seam Length

Controls the skirt length measured along the right side seam, from waist to hem. This value determines how long the skirt is overall.

  • When flare is set to 0, the hem remains equal to the hip measurement regardless of skirt length.
  • Increasing flare changes hem width and fullness, not seam length.
  • Length and volume are controlled independently.

Left Side Seam Length

Controls the skirt length along the left seam, from waist to hem. This value is fully independent from the right side seam.

  • The left seam is cut on the fold by default.
  • To create a uniform hem, set the left seam length equal to the right seam length.
  • Increasing the left seam length allows you to add length to the back panel while keeping the front and side seams aligned.
  • Because the two right seams form the visible side seams, this setup lets you create back coverage or high-low silhouettes without disrupting fit.

For advanced customization, you can multiply the waist and hip measurements by four and choose not to cut on the fold. This unlocks asymmetrical designs, uneven hems, and more experimental silhouettes while using the same base pattern system.

Two Ways to Add Fullness

Both methods below use the same idea: you are increasing the hem circumference to add volume, then entering that value into the hip input so the tool drafts the hem exactly where you want it.

Option 1: Freestyle Fullness (Fast and Flexible)

Use this option when you want a quick way to exaggerate fullness without doing any calculations. It is ideal for design exploration, or when you already have a sense of how dramatic you want the hem to be.

  1. Start with your hip measurement.
  2. Multiply it by 2 for a fuller A-line, or by 3 for a much more dramatic hem.
  3. Enter that number into the hip input (you are using it as a hem target).
  4. Set flare to 100%.

In this workflow, the hip input is not representing your body, it is representing the hem circumference you want the pattern to draft.

Option 2: Circle Math Fullness (Precise and Predictable)

Use this option when you want to control fullness mathematically. This method calculates the hem circumference based on the adjusted waist opening and your skirt length, then lets you scale that hem circumference to get a 2x or 3x fuller result.

Step 1: Adjust the Waist Circumference

Apply your reduction ratio to the waist circumference. This creates the effective waist opening used to draft the skirt.

Adjusted waist circumference = waist circumference × reduction ratio

Step 2: Convert Circumference to Radius

Use the circumference of a circle to find the waist radius.

Waist radius = adjusted waist circumference ÷ (2 × π)

Step 3: Add Skirt Length to Get the Hem Radius

The hem radius is the waist radius plus the skirt length.

Hem radius = waist radius + skirt length

Step 4: Calculate the Hem Circumference

Now calculate the circumference at the hem.

Hem circumference = 2 × π × hem radius

Step 5: Multiply for Fullness

Multiply the hem circumference to control how full you want the skirt to be.

Final hem value = hem circumference × 2   (for 2x fullness)
Final hem value = hem circumference × 3   (for 3x fullness)

Step 6: Enter the Final Hem Value into the Tool

Enter your final hem value into the hip input. You are using the hip field as a direct hem control, telling the tool exactly how wide the hem should be.

Seam Allowance Controls

You can add custom seam allowances to:

  • Hem
  • Waistband
  • Right side seam

This allows full control over construction preferences and finishing methods.

Quick Takeaway

If you want more volume, you do not need to change skirt length or compromise fit at the waist. You can simply increase the hem circumference and enter that value into the hip input. Option 1 is fast and intuitive. Option 2 is formula-based and repeatable. Both give you direct control over the hemline, which is what creates fullness.

Purchase the tool HERE

 

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